How to zero a .22 rifle: 25, 50 or 100 yards, step by step
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Which zero distance?
| Zero | Near zero | Path at 50 yd | Path at 100 yd | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 yd | ~23 yd | 0.0 in | about -5.9 in | Most uses: small game, NRL22, plinking |
| 75 yd | ~15 yd | about +1.2 in | about -3.2 in | Pests at 50–90 yd |
| 100 yd | ~11 yd | about +2.9 in | 0.0 in | Rarely ideal for .22 LR |
Near-zero points and 50 yd zero path from AmmoSight (40 gr, 1,235 fps, 1.5 in sight height) [1]; 100 yd zero path from Ballistic Buddy [2]; 75 yd zero path from CCI's Mini-Mag data as republished by AmmoWisdom [3].
A 25 yd zero is common on iron-sighted and youth rifles. With a scope 1.5 in over the bore, a 25 yd zero sends high-velocity rounds high at 50–75 yd, so re-zero if you'll shoot farther.
What you need
- A solid rest: Caldwell DeadShot rear bag plus a front bag or Harris bipod.
- Targets with a 1 in grid (Shoot-N-C bullseyes) and a target stand.
- The ammo you'll actually use. Changing loads usually changes zero.
- A properly mounted, level scope; see optics mounting and the Level-Level-Level.
- Eye and ear protection (glasses, muffs).
Step by step
- Bore-sight. On a bolt gun, remove the bolt, rest the rifle steadily, look through the bore at a 25 yd target, then move the reticle onto the same spot without moving the rifle.
- First shots at 25 yd. Fire 3 rounds at the center. Discount the first if it's a cold, clean bore.
- Measure the group center from the aim point in inches, up/down and left/right.
- Convert to clicks. At 25 yd, 0.1 mil = 0.09 in and 1/4 MOA = 0.065 in. Example: a group 1 in low with a 0.1 mil scope needs about 11 clicks up. Check your turret marking [4].
- Move to 50 yd and repeat with 3-shot groups. At 50 yd, 0.1 mil = 0.18 in and 1/4 MOA = 0.13 in [5].
- Confirm with one 5- or 10-shot group. If its center is within a click or two of the aim point, you're done.
- Reset turret zero. Many target turrets let you slip the dial back to "0."
- Record zero distance, ammo lot, temperature and date.
Our range results (coming soon)
This box will hold our own groups, chronograph data and photos for this topic once we've shot and recorded them. Until then, every accuracy number on this page comes from the published source cited next to it. We have not tested these rifles or products hands-on for this article.
Click math table
| Distance | Inches per 0.1 mil | Clicks per inch (0.1 mil) | Inches per 1/4 MOA | Clicks per inch (1/4 MOA) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 25 yd | 0.09 | ~11 | 0.065 | ~15 |
| 50 yd | 0.18 | ~5.5 | 0.13 | ~8 |
| 100 yd | 0.36 | ~2.8 | 0.26 | ~4 |
Iron sights and peep sights
Iron and peep sights move point of impact by turning a screw or drifting the rear sight. The rule is "move the rear sight in the direction you want the shots to go." Small, frequent adjustments beat big ones. Many youth rifles ship with peep sights; see best first .22.
Troubleshooting a zero that won't settle
- Wandering groups: check action screw torque (F.A.T. Wrench), ring and base screws, and scope clamping.
- Parallax: set side focus for the distance and keep your eye centered.
- Ammo: some rifles shoot certain loads poorly; try CCI Standard Velocity or SK Standard Plus.
- Turret tracking: do a box test (up, right, down, left) and see if you return to the start.
- More in troubleshooting.
After zeroing: get your dope
Shoot at 75, 100 and beyond and record actual holds; compare with our drop and wind charts. Rifle-specific pages: T1x zeroing and CZ 457 zeroing.
Zeroing with a suppressor
Adding or removing a suppressor can shift point of impact. Zero in the configuration you'll hunt or compete with, and if you swap often, record both zeros. See rimfire suppressor hosts.
Safety
Use a proper backstop: a .22 bullet can travel more than 1.5 miles [6]. See how far can a .22 shoot.
Zeroing different rifle types
- Bolt actions (T1x, CZ 457, BMR, Savage): bore-sighting is easy because the bolt comes out. Most come with a dovetail or rail ready for a scope.
- Semi-autos (10/22, A22): you can't look through the bore easily; start at 15–25 yd on a large target. Laser bore-sighters can help.
- Youth single-shots: often iron or peep sights; zero at 25 yd and keep shots close.
How often to re-check zero
Re-check after changing ammo or lot, after removing the scope or action from the stock, after travel or a drop, at the start of each season, and whenever you change suppressor configuration. A quick 5-shot confirmation at 50 yd before a hunt or match is cheap insurance.
Keeping a zero log
| Field | Example |
|---|---|
| Date / temperature | Oct 12, 48 °F |
| Ammo and lot | Product and lot number |
| Zero distance | 50 yd |
| Clicks from mechanical center | Elevation and windage counts |
| Notes | Suppressor on/off, cleaning |
Ten-second sanity checks before you blame the zero
- Is the scope's parallax set for this distance?
- Is the magnification where you normally shoot?
- Are the turrets where you left them, and is the turret cap on?
- Are you using the same rest and the same ammo lot as last time?
- Is the suppressor or thread protector on, matching your zero log?
FAQ
What is the best zero for a .22 LR?
For most uses, 50 yd. Bullets stay close to the line of sight from about 25 to 50 yd and are roughly 6 in low at 100 yd.
How many clicks move 1 inch at 50 yards?
About 5.5 clicks with a 0.1 mil scope or about 8 clicks with a 1/4 MOA scope.
Should I zero a .22 at 25 yards?
It's fine for iron sights and short-range use. With a scope, re-zero at 50 yd if you'll shoot farther.
Why does my zero change with different ammo?
Different loads have different velocities and bullet weights, and barrels respond differently to each. Zero with the ammo you'll use.
Sources
- AmmoSight .22 LR trajectory table (G1 0.125, 1,235 fps)
- Ballistic Buddy .22 LR drop table (50 and 100 yd zero)
- AmmoWisdom .17 HMR vs .22 LR chart (CCI data)
- Vortex Viper PST manual (click values)
- LongRangeShooting.org: MOA and mils explained
- Hunter-ed.com: importance of safe backstops
Confidence: maker specs and prices are high confidence as of the date seen; forum and owner reports are low–medium confidence and labeled as such.
Not affiliated with Sako/Tikka, CZ, Bergara, Ruger, Savage or any retailer. We have not tested products hands-on for these guides; figures come from cited sources. Affiliate disclosure · Privacy · Terms · Rimfire Builds is operated by Tomahawk Designs LLC, Utah · contact@rimfirebuilds.com